|The word tendinitis refers to inflammatory damage of the tendinous structure. Nowadays, it is recognized that most of the time this term is wrongly used to describe a tendinosis...|
http://www.kinescalade.com/plugins/editors/jce/tiny_mce/plugins/article/img/readmore.gif); font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10px; line-height: normal; text-align: justify; word-spacing: 0px;">
DefinitionThe word tendinitis refers to inflammatory damage of the tendinous structure. Nowadays, it is recognized that most of the time this term is wrongly used to describe a tendinosis, that is a degenerative condition with micro-rupture of the tendon. In that case, the inflammatory condition is just one of the consequences.
Mechanism of the lesionThe tendon wears out like a rope exposed to tension and high friction.
|Fig 1: Schematic strain of the tendon in a crimp|
|Fig 2: Strain on the convexity of the tendon|
Use open hand grips as often as you can. Place your feet properly so as to relieve the tension in the tendons.
Correction of the exercise schedule:
Take a rest of 1 day between each maximum strength session for the fingers. The strength cycle should not exceed 3 weeks.
Do not exceed 3 strength sessions per week. Remember to vary your pleasure; resistance and continuity are also very important even in bouldering.
Correction of the physical preparation:
The training of the finger muscles occurs only in open hand position.
Fig 3: Stretching of the finger flexors
Ice treatment as soon as the symptoms appear, after each session by taking a bath or getting a massage with ice cubes.
Application of an anti-inflammatory gel after the ice treatment (respect the manufacturer’s directions).
Strict stretching exercises, before the effort (active stretching – refer to the stretching form), and after the effort (passive stretching – refer to the stretching form).
Reduce the intensity of the finger training sessions.
If the pain persists after the warm-up, do not overdo the training and consult a doctor (attention no infiltration).