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Interview Kairn/Kinescalade de Jarno Zwiebel, victime d’une luxation de l’épaule sur le TAB 2008, avec des complications neurologiques. |
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Interview Kairn/Kinescalade : entretien avec Loïc Gaidioz qui revient sur sa blessure à l'épaule qui l'a éloigné du circuit des compétitions internationales de bloc cette année. |
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Stretching exercices are essential for recovery but also to prevent from injuries. Many videos. |
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The following stretching exercises should be done after each training session as a recovery tool. They can be done immediately after the training or a few hours later. However, after hard training sessions or competitions, it could be better not to pull too much immediately after effort – you’d better wait until the next day.
The goal is trying to find the best slackening possible of the muscle: make the contractures, that block the good vascularization of the fibres, disappear. The aim here is not trying to gain amplitude “to be more supple”. Stretching is used for recovery, which guarantees better performance and prevents microtraumas.
Above all, during a stretching session, you must listen to your body. You need to pay attention to your sensations and take the time to learn to feel them. You should not reproduce a mechanical movement; everybody needs to adapt his or her position according to his or her feeling.
To carry out a stretching exercise:
1. Take a position to put the muscle under tension and take time to adopt the right position.
2. Once the right position is found (and only when you get it), slightly heighten the tension without jolts (do not mix up tensioning and torture. It must not be painful. You should not make faces while stretching).
3. Breathe calmly, without forcing. In the same time, concentrate on the slackening of the stretched muscle while maintaining a constant tension during 15 to 20 seconds.
4. Slowly loosen the tension.
Methodology of the session:
In order not to forget any muscle and to make your stretching session become automatic, try to do it methodically by adopting a logical order like the one I suggest below:
Start at one end,
Stretch one side,
Then the other,
Do it 2 more times,
Then take the muscle back up progressively by stretching one muscle and then its antagonist.
The short movies below start with the hand, continue with the upper limb, then go down the trunk and finish with the lower limb. The last movies show stretching exercises of musculo-aponeurotic structures.
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Interosseous [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_01"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}]
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Finger and wrist flexor Located in the forearm, these muscles are the “key” muscles of our sport. We stretch them intuitively but not always in the right manner. Here is how to do. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_02"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Finger and wrist extensors Also located in the forearm but at the back side, they are highly strained too when practising with climbing holds, especially when pinching tufas. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_03"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Biceps brachii and anterior deltoid
The biceps is one of the big muscles of the elbow flexion; traction and blocking are its main functions. However it needs to preserve a maximum of its “liberty” to accomplish its other role: the lowering of the head of the humerus. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_04"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}]
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Triceps brachii and teres major The triceps enables the elbow extension, which is useful for low blocking and dynamic movements. The teres major is a muscle of the “rotator cuff”; it is an internal rotator, contractures of this muscle are common. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_05"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Posterior deltoid and rhomboids Located at the posterior side of the shoulder and between the shoulder blades, this region is always used a lot. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_06"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Pectoralis major It is located in the chest area, it is much strained for slope and tends to lock the shoulders forward – regular stretching may avoid getting kyphosis. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_07"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Latissimus dorsi (broadest muscle of the back) It is a very strong and highly strained muscle that also contributes to kyphosis. It is the last one of the 3 big muscles (teres muscle, pectoral and dorsal). Trio of the internal rotation and of the lowering of the arm. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_08"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Rectus abdominis muscles Six packs are “nice” but it should not limit your mobility. Improving muscle strength and exercising abs should not be done at the expense of mobility, otherwise your will lose effectiveness. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_09"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Abdominal external oblique muscle “abs” have straight (see above) and crossed fibres. The latter enables the torsion of the trunk and also need to keep their whole amplitude. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_10"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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Paravertebral lumbar muscles These muscles of the “low back” are sometimes overworked. Relaxing them regularly is very important. [{avrpopup type="lightbox" id="lecteur_11"}voir la vidéo{/avrpopup}] |
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There are plenty of ways to develop the cardio: running, cycling, cross-country skiing, rollerblading, swimming, hiking, using the stepper, the rowing machine |
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Jocelyn-William LOUBRIAT
There are plenty of ways to develop the cardio: running, cycling, cross-country skiing, rollerblading, swimming, hiking, using the stepper, the rowing machine etc. No matter what you do, the important thing is the way you do it. You should enjoy it. So if you hate running, do not do it. Some people may prefer the mountain bike, others the cardio training in a gym. Sometimes people have no choice, not everybody has a parc near their house where they can run or cycle.
The main thing is stimulating the cardio-respiratory system in an appropriate and regular manner. Good planning also increases the benefits.
We consider the use of a cardio frequency meter as essential. It makes it easy to evaluate the work required for your body. Thus a small investment of less than 30 euro permits you to not strain the heart while you want to strengthen it.
Long term endurance workout
The objective is performing a moderate effort over a long period.
The cardiac frequency must be maintained between 120 and 140 heartbeats/minute for 1 hour or more.
Running, on-road cycling, cross-country skiing, rambling, cross-country rambling, snowshoeing, swimming or working out in a gym are appropriate exercises for this.
Interval training
Exercises and relative rest are alternated with the objective of achieving a short increase in the heart rate followed by a decrease to avoid putting strain on the heart
Cycling with a bike or a mountain bike, cross-country skiing, rollerblading or running are natural ways to do this type of workout, however only if the route chosen alternates between uphill and descents. You can also vary your speed.
Below you will find two types of structured sessions that can be realised by running, but it can also be adapted to the others activities. It is real work that requires the will to do it properly.
Session of short interval training
Jogging (rhythm between 120 and 140 heartbeats/min) 10min
6x 30-30: 30 seconds of fast running (but not maximum speed) - 30 seconds of very slow running (or even fast walking)
5 minutes of jogging for relative recovery
6x 30-30
5 minutes of jogging for relative recovery
6x 30-30
5 to 10 minutes of jogging for relative recovery.
This example can be modified in the following way: 10min warm up / 8x 30-30 / 5min recovery / 8x 30-30 / 5 to 10min recovery.
Everyone is to adapt the session according to the training time available.
Long interval training
Jogging (rhythm between 120 and 140 heartbeats/min) 10min
Fast running for 1km or from 3 to 4 min if you have no calibrated course. Attention, the running rhythm is fast but not at the maximum because you must be able to maintain it over the whole distance (or the fixed time) such as for the following routines.
Rest 2min30 (slow walk, recovery)
Fast running (same distance or fixed time)
Rest 2min30
Fast running
Rest 2min30
Fast running
Rest 2min30 and then jogging for recovery 5min
Attention, at the beginning the start is generally to fast, but once you are used to it, you will be able to adjust the running rhythm perfectly. During the last parts of the routine, the cardiac rhythm increases a lot, monitor it and note it in a training journal.
Planning
To optimize the work of your cardio-respiratory capacities, vary the sessions.
For example:
If you have scheduled 2 sessions per week,
Week 1: 1 session of endurance work 1 session of short interval training.
Week 2: 1 session of short interval training and 1 of long interval training.
Week 3: 1 session of endurance work and 1 of long interval training.
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Water represents 60 to 70% of the body’s weight. 90% of the blood plasma, 40% of the bones, 70% the muscles consist of water. It seems that drinking not enough water is the cause of some repetitive conditions: strained muscles, tendinitis. |
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Jean-Philippe SAMEL
Did you know that when you feel thirsty, your organism already has in a deficit of about 1.5 litres of water? Did you know that a loss of water of 2% that is not compensated (i.e. 1 litre for a person of 70 kg) causes a decrease of 20% of your performance?
Hours of training are of no benefit just because you have not drunk enough before, during and after the physical effort.
Therefore regular rehydration is essential.
1. WATER AND IT’S FONCTIONS
It has a physical role
Water represents 60 to 70% of the body’s weight. 90% of the blood plasma, 40% of the bones, 70% the muscles consist of water. It seems that drinking not enough water is the cause of some repetitive conditions: strained muscles, tendinitis.
It has a functional role
Water is the most fundamental food.
It is the solvent of most foods and waste that may transit by osmosis through cell membrane, which enables the cell to feed and eliminate the waste.
It has a thermo-regulatory role
I move so I’m warming!
The mechanical performance of the “muscular motor” is of about 25% and goes with a production of warmth (75%). This increases the body temperature that is regulated thanks to the perspiration and then the evaporation of sweat which cools down the body.
This mechanism can lead to a very important loss of water.
With an air temperature of 28°C, a long distance runner can lose up to 2 litres per hour in order not to explode due to the heat!
It has a role that is necessary to enzymatic reactions
Water permits biochemical exchanges (synthesis, degradations, oxidations, reductions, energy transfer, etc.). All the enzymes are proteins and all the cellular proteins must have enzymatic activity: thus, the main protein of the muscle, the myosin, is an active enzyme, the ATP (adenosine triphosphate).
It has a shock absorber role
When a fall is unavoidable, the cerebrospinal liquid serves as “crash-pad” and prevents your brain from hitting strongly against the cranium. Therefore it is better to maintain the liquid level…
2. DEHYDRATION
Definition of dehydration
Dehydration is the reduction of the quantity of water contained in our bodies.
Water divides into 2 systems:
2/3 of intracellular water, rich in potassium inside the cells
1/3 of extracellular water, rich in sodium in the liquids: blood, bile…
The intra- and extracellular environment are separated by an osmotic membrane permeable to water and impervious to mineral salts.
If the concentration of mineral salts is modified, the liquid of the less concentrated solution spreads to the more concentrated solution creating problems in the metabolism that can be more or less serious: this is the phenomenon of dehydration.
The mechanism of dehydration
dehydration by water loss in the extracellular sector.
Most of the time, this has happened when your shirt is soaked.
Filling up (with water) is usually done by natural instinct.
dehydration by loss of salt without water loss:
The water moves directly from the extracellular sector to the cells with circulatory troubles occurring.
Salt intake may be necessary depending on the advice of your doctor.
Dehydration due to an equal loss of water and salt often happens in hot countries and during endurance training over several hours. There is a weakening of the saline concentration in both sectors that must be compensated by 3 to 4 g of salt/litre of water.
Causes of dehydration
The length and the intensity of the physical effort condition the water loss.
One session of physical rock climbing will “pump” differently than a sequence of a steady route of 6 lengths in the mountains.
The climatic conditions, the sun and the wind play an essential role on dehydration.
Be aware of false impressions created by a nice refreshing wind …
Take into account:
- the air temperature, especially cold air which dehydrates as effectively as heat but less evidently.
During an indoor competition, a badly air-conditioned gymnasium may quickly become a real oven.
Do not forget to water the climber so he “cooks” slowly without getting dehydrated!
- the humidity of the air (hygrometry): the more humid the air , the more difficult is evaporation; and the more the body heats up, the more the body dehydrates to compensate. A challenging and vicious circle!
- the altitude in the mountains. Dry and cold air “burns” the lungs and provokes important evaporation of water with each breath.
The lack of filters (dust, CO²) increases the intensity of the sun’s rays and causes the heating-up of the rocks which may reach 60° at 4.000 m…
Clothes must permit the body’s evaporation and at the same time protect the body from air temperature variations.
Get rid of your airtight suit, the one used “to sweat more and lose more fat”, which is a rather harmful aberration. If you can, use synthetic fibres that evacuate perspiration perfectly and dry quickly.
Health concerns: high temperature, diarrhea, dysentery, traverler’s diarrhea provoke quick dehydration.
Consequences of dehydration
Generally speaking, the effects of dehydration on an athletic person are usually the same as on a non-athletic person:
Muscular and tendinous incidents: cramps, strained muscles, tendinitis
Increase of the interior body temperature
Increase of the heart rate
Decrease of the volume of systolic ejection (bloodstream)
Problems of the urinary system (stones)
Bad supply of blood to the small blood vessels (risk of frostbite)
Digestive problems
Feeling of illness, tiredness and the urge to stop
Decrease of the performance during a non-compensated water loss:
With 2% of water loss (i.e. 1L for 70kg), the performance decreases by 20%
With 3%, the duration of the effort decreases by 20%, the heart rate increases by 5%
With 4%, VO2 max is reduce by 20%
With 5% (i.e. 2,5L for 70kg), the duration of the physical effort decreases by 40%, the heart rate increases by 10%...
Never forget that the privation of water leads to death faster than the lack of food
3. REGULAR HYDRATION
The right amount
The daily ration of water is obtained by:
50% in solids (40 to 60% of water in meats, 60 to 85% in fruits, 40% in bred)
and 50% in drinks (preferably non-alcoholic ones…)
The hydric ration depends of the total caloric intake.
It can be expressed by the formula: 1 ml of water / 1 burnt calorie (3 L / 3000 cal.)
However that formula should be adapted to the type of activity and the climate…
A person needs 2,5 litres / day without performing any physical activities.
However, 6 litres of water (100% liquid) are essential in summer in a desert, without doing strenuous efforts, otherwise the amount would even be higher …
Drink before the activity
During the warm-up, the level of hydration must stay at the right level to avoid exposing your “muscled passages” to a state of dehydration.
Therefore you should drink slightly mineraled water (waiting ration).
Drink during the activity
It is essential to drink small quantities every 10 min to compensate the regular water loss: 0,5 to 1 litre / hour.
The water can be slightly salty (a pinch) to compensate the loss of mineral salts (sodium). Add also carbohydrates (honey, 25g / litre) to prevent hypoglycaemia.
When it is cold, drink hot drinks!
It is better to use up your energetic fuel for the activity rather for the fight against the body’s cooling.
It is easily said, but not always easily done!
For easy drinking at the belay station of the 3rd length, it is the best to use the water pocket (2 litres) with a flexible straw that you put in your backpack, or the more expensive solution: the Camelback type.
In winter, when climbing in crags or bouldering: taking a thermos for hot drinks is a good solution.
Drink after the activity
Every water loss of more than 3% of the body’s weight (1,5 L for 70 kg) has to be compensated within 24 hours.
At the end of the activity, you must drink mineraled water until you are full and at mealtime, a soup may help to compensate de hydric loss.
Recommendations to instructors of people who train occasionally, beginners and/or children.
You have now been informed about the benefits of correct hydration.
That principle, which is part of the healthy lifestyle of an athlete, contributes your performance and helps to prevent injuries.
Encourage the people close to you to take plenty of fluids (as yourself!) during your athletic activities.
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Electrostimulation is a technology that is used for physiotherapy and has applications in sport. |
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Jocelyn-William LOUBRIAT
Definition
Electrostimulation is a technology that is used for physiotherapy and has applications in sport.
A low intensity electric current is applied with electrodes taped on the skin surface. According to the nature of the current (variation of the frequency, of the pulse width, of the form of the current, etc.), the goals differ:
muscle relaxation,
muscle recovery,
muscle strengthening,
pain relief.
In any case, the current stimulates the nerve that stimulates the muscle or the nervous system (analgesic current).
The concerned public
The regular climber, who climbs without real training and who wishes to gain muscle bulk, but has no material means for weight training, will certainly took advantage of combining his or her climbing sessions with some sessions of electrostimulation.
The efficient climber, who already integrates classical weight lifting into his or her training, will also find advantages of electrostimulation at certain periods of his schedule as it can be a real timesaver.
The competitor will optimise his performances thanks to a smart use of the machine for strengthening and recovery.
Recovery
If there were only one reason justifying the use of electrostimulation then it would be the beneficial effect of this technology for recovery.
Better relaxation, good venous return and improvement of the arterial supply are possible thanks to the stimulation provoking short muscle twitches. The muscle eliminates the wastes resulting of the muscle contraction more easily.
There are several programs:
Recovery: |
To be used in the hours following the effort, between two rounds (qualifications/semi-finals/finals), between two training sessions in the same day. |
Active recovery: |
To be used in the 8 to 24 hours following the effort for a faster recovery after a competition or a hard session. (Can be used between two rounds if your machine does not have a relaxation program.) |
Muscle relaxation: |
If the effort has provoked contractures, use this program to make them disappear quickly. (To be avoided between two rounds because of the diminution of muscle tone) |
Muscle strengthening
The second important advantage of electrostimulation is the strengthening.
The electric stimulation enables more intense muscle solicitation thanks to a higher recruitment of the number of fibres. That really means that the muscle stimulated by the electric current contracts more than when contracted voluntarily.
Thus, while a traditional session of muscle strengthening causes the general fatigue of the sportsman with an under maximum stimulation of the muscle fibres, the specific electric stimulation of one or more muscle groups causes only the fatigue of these particular muscles, and with a higher performance.
In addition, depending on the frequency of the stimulation, we are able to target the muscle fibres we want to work out: fibres of endurance, resistance, maximum strength, and explosive strength.
Endurance : |
Endurance programs develop the capacity of the muscle to provide an effort of moderate intensity during a very long period (several dozen minutes and several hours = big routes). |
Resistance : |
This program develops the capacity of the muscle to maintain a sustained effort on an extended length (several minutes = cliff, traverse) |
Maximum strength: |
Enables the development of the maximum strength of the muscle, that is, the capacity to mobilise (or maintain) a maximum load on a short length. (some seconds = bouldering) |
Explosive strength: |
Develops the capacity to provide an instant effort with an important strength and a maximum speed. (dyno, bouldering) |
In climbing, the energy pathways are quite complex because even during an effort that could be classified as endurance (big routes), you may need to provide an explosive effort for a dyno. In the same manner, during a bouldering competition, we seek a lot of strength, but also notions of resistance and endurance, that is, the capacity to recover quickly to succeed in the following tries or the following boulders.
Therefore, it is not enough to strengthen the major pathways of the discipline practised; you should also train the others.
Other programs
There are other programs on the electrostimulation machines:
Warm up: |
In climbing, the warm up is too often neglected. |
Capillarization: |
Increase the vascularization of the muscle and thus increase the number of capillaries (small blood vessels) at the level of muscle fibres. To be effective, this program must be used regularly (several times a week). The increase of the muscle vascularization improves the capacity of resistance and endurance. |
Analgesic currents or TENS (Transcutaneous Electrical Nerve Stimulation) |
These currents stimulate the nerve to disturb the pain message. The principle is to inundate the main nerves, which have the priority over the nerves carrying pain, and so the painful information does not reach the brain. It consists in a symptomatic treatment – the cause of the pain is not treated. Therefore, if the pain persists, please see your doctor. |
Muscles to be stimulated
Here are the main muscles to be strengthened for climbing
However it is not useless to stimulate other important muscle groups:
Triceps brachii: important for mantles and to hold on very low blockings,
Triceps Surae (calf): important muscles during dynos (slight overhang or vertical wall) (explosive strength), but also for long slabs (endurance).
Do not forget that the principle rule of any weight lifting workout is to avoid a loss of balance between antagonist and agonist muscles. Let me explain it to you: if you strengthen too much the finger flexors without training the extensors, you will disturb the balance between these two muscle groups located on both sides of the forearm, and this is not good! Ditto for biceps/triceps, quadriceps/hamstrings, etc.
Which machine should I choose?
Choose a machine that is easy to use and that disposes of enough programs to cover all muscle groups that need training.
Cheap products can produce mediocre currents and have lower functionalities (products from supermarkets or teleshopping).
We work regularly with Electrofitness, a specialist in the sale of electrostimulators for sportsmen. They will give you information and advice about the kind of machine that best fits your needs. You will also find valuable explanations on their website.
For more information about it:
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L'Electrostimulation dans l'Entraînement du Grimpeur (Electrostimulation in climbers training) Small French how-to book bound to accompany climbers who use or wish to use electrostimulation in their daily training. Available here for 14,99 € - Kinescalade Editions |
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Warming-up is essential before any physical exercise, in particular when the goal is physical performance. |
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Jocelyn-William LOUBRIAT
Warming-up is essential before any physical exercise, in particular when the goal is physical performance. A quality warm-up favours and conditions it and also avoids numerous injuries (an injury being the worst contra-performance).
The warm-up must be divided into 2 or 3 phases. The first phase is the general warm-up and it should never be omitted. Unfortunately, that phase is neglected most of the time.
The general warm-up
The goal is to increase the body temperature, essential precondition for a good sliding of the tendons in their sheath, under the pulleys and for good muscular contraction.
Omitting that phase is very harmful to your organism.
The only time loss you will have is the one spent moping about the various injuries that could have been avoided.
How:
You must achieve an increase of the heart and respiratory rhythm, as well as a state of minor sweating and maintain this for about 10 to 15 minutes.
Indoors: rope jumping, running, flexing-straightening up, jumping on the spot, knee bends, heel to buttock, etc. Remember that your bike is an environmentally friendly means of transportation and that it can also be used for general warm-up on the way to and as active recuperation on the way back.
Outdoors: If the way to take is at least 15 minutes and if you have sweat a little, it is your general warm-up and you can go to the next phase. Otherwise: a short run around the climbing area, flexing-straightening up, jumping on the spot, knee bend, heel to buttock, etc.
The direct warm-up
The aim is to stimulate progressively all joints and muscles, to stimulate their sensory sensors, and to prevent injuries.
This work can only be done after a general warm-up.
If a phase has to be sacrificed, than it should be this second phase. However only as an exception.
How:
Movements of flexion-extension of the fingers
Working up fingers with the help of a ball or kneading clay
Rotations of the wrists
Flexion extension of the elbows
Rotation of the shoulders (small circles, big circles, reverse rotation: one arm in one direction and the other arm in another direction…)
Movements of the head: attention, no sudden movement, make slow movements with a moderate amplitude in one direction and then in the other direction…
Rotations of the ankles
Repeat each exercise about 20 times.
The specific warm-up
The aim is to pull progressively on the structures that will be used (not to say mistreated) during trials at maximum level.
The human tendon is not supposed to support the body’s weight on its own. That remains true for everybody, whether at ease in a 6a or in an 8a.
Start climbing without warm up at a level up to 6b is allowed for those wishing to stop climbing before retirement (attention, it is forbidden to complain, you have been warned).
Respecting as much as you can the three phases of the warm up is essential if you want to continue climbing for a long time.
How:
Hanging on big holds.
Traverse by taking all the holds.
Climb at a lower level compared with the maximum without needing to overdo in the first routes.
Increase progressively the difficulty over 3 routes minimum.
Example: maximum level 7a:
1st route: 5a
2nd route: 5c
3rd route: 6a+
4th route: 6c
Example: maximum level 7c:
1st route: 5c
2nd route: 6b
3rd route: 6c
4th route: 7a+/7b
(the examples are specifically chosen on high levels because the “strong” climbers are most of the time the one who neglect that progressiveness and so give a bad example).
If the aim of your session is to realise trials at your maximum level, you can start by realising these trials after a warm up of 45 to 60 minutes. It may seem long, but 10 to 15 minutes of general warm up + 10 minutes of direct warm up + 20 minutes of specific warm up = 40 to 45 minutes, without counting the rests between the different phases.
However, at a closer look: If you have walk or ride your bike to your favourite climbing hall, you start climbing only 10 minutes after having arrived at the location!
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This term describes the inflammation of the synovial sheath that surrounds the tendon (fig 1). In climbing, it refers to the inflammation of a synovial sheath that surrounds the tendons of the flexors... |
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Definition
This term describes the inflammation of the synovial sheath that surrounds the tendon (fig 1). In climbing, it refers to the inflammation of a synovial sheath that surrounds the tendons of the flexors of the fingers.
It usually appears suddenly, with acute pain around the first phalanx (P1). It is possible to have the pain radiate to the palm or even to the forearm. Sometimes you can see an oedema at P1 level.
It is often mixed up wrongly with a pulley rupture because of its sudden appearance but it is not as serious as a pulley rupture. However, it should not be left untreated.
A comparison can be made between the state of the sheath during a tenosynovitis and the state of the skin during a “steak”: imagine the little bleeding of the sheath and you will understand why it hurts
Fig 1: Situation of the sheath
Mechanism of the lesion
It appears during a crushing of the sheath between the pulley and the tendon or between the hold and the tendon.
It is the result of an intense mechanical impact that occurs only once or less intense impact that occurs repeatedly.
It is important to take into account that the repetition of the movement is really harmful for the structures.
When holding a crimp, the sheath is crushed between the tendon and the pulley (fig 2).
Fig 2: Friction between the pulley and the tendon
Fig 3: Friction between the tendon and an angular hold
Prevention
Technique correction:
Use open hand holds and slopers with an open hand grip, avoid angular holds or hold them in a way that is non-traumatizing.
Correction of the exercise schedule:
Respect the fact that progress is gradual, do not train too hard without rest, adjust the intensity and the work-out to your level.
You need to spend a period of 3 weeks with maximum the strength and the resistance training.
Correction of the physical preparation:
Progressive training of the muscles of the fingers before starting a maximum project, especially for one-finger, two-finger holds or crimps.
Treatment
Stop the session.
Put ice on it the fastest you can. Then apply an anti-inflammatory gel.
Do not use you finger as long as the pain persists at rest.
Put on a ring of strappal® (fig 4), which enables you only to take open hand holds and keep it on day and night for ten days. Change it every day; put ice on it and then again the anti-inflammatory gel.
Fig 4: Tapping of the finger
Take up training again but do not use traumatic holds (open hand grip on angular and crimp holds) and avoid all pain (if it hurts: stop).
See the sport doctor if the symptoms persist (no infiltration).
Some physical therapy sessions with ultrasound can accelerate the healing.
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The word tendinitis refers to inflammatory damage of the tendinous structure. Nowadays, it is recognized that most of the time this term is wrongly used to describe a tendinosis... |
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Definition
The word tendinitis refers to inflammatory damage of the tendinous structure. Nowadays, it is recognized that most of the time this term is wrongly used to describe a tendinosis, that is a degenerative condition with micro-rupture of the tendon. In that case, the inflammatory condition is just one of the consequences.Mechanism of the lesion
The tendon wears out like a rope exposed to tension and high friction.
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Fig 1: Schematic strain of the tendon in a crimp |
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Fig 2: Strain on the convexity of the tendon |
Prevention
Technique correction:
Use open hand grips as often as you can. Place your feet properly so as to relieve the tension in the tendons.
Correction of the exercise schedule:
Take a rest of 1 day between each maximum strength session for the fingers. The strength cycle should not exceed 3 weeks.
Do not exceed 3 strength sessions per week. Remember to vary your pleasure; resistance and continuity are also very important even in bouldering.
Correction of the physical preparation:
The training of the finger muscles occurs only in open hand position.
Fig 3: Stretching of the finger flexors
Ice treatment as soon as the symptoms appear, after each session by taking a bath or getting a massage with ice cubes.
Application of an anti-inflammatory gel after the ice treatment (respect the manufacturer’s directions).
Strict stretching exercises, before the effort (active stretching – refer to the stretching form), and after the effort (passive stretching – refer to the stretching form).
Reduce the intensity of the finger training sessions.
If the pain persists after the warm-up, do not overdo the training and consult a doctor (attention no infiltration).
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A finger sprain is the stretching or tearing of a ligament. A ligament is a fibrous structure that maintains the articulation (≠ the tendon which is one part of the muscular apparatus) |
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Definition
A finger sprain is the stretching or tearing of a ligament.
A ligament is a fibrous structure that maintains the articulation (≠ the tendon which is one part of the muscular apparatus) (fig 1).
The collateral ligaments of the proximal interphalangeal articulation (PIP) of the fingers are generally the most affected.
The sprain is an accident with almost immediate pain and instant functional inability, and with an oedema that can be more or less severe.
The extent of the pain, the functional inability and the oedema depend on the severity of the lesion (from simple stretching to complete tearing of a ligament).
A probable effect of a sprain is a lateral laxity of the articulation due to a lack of support, because the ligament does no longer play its role.
Fig 1: Anatomy of the interphalangeal ligaments
Mechanism of the lesion
The fingers’ twisting is responsible for the sprain.
Some complex holds require twisting the fingers, as e.g. with oblique holds.
The risk is equally high when climbing in narrow cracks as it is with deep holes: the finger can get stuck in the hold.
A bad landing on a hold after a dynamic movement or on the ground after a fall can also be disastrous for the collateral ligaments of your fingers.
This might seem redundant, but it is important to understand that repeating identical strain on a structure, in this case a ligament, leads to damage to it.
Technique correction:
Learn to better place your fingers, grabbing a hold with precision is extremely important.
Remember to make sure you can exit your fingers from deep holds when making dynamic movements.
Correcting the planning schedule:
Do not carry heavy loads without rest and do adjust the intensity to your level.
Correction of the physical preparation:
A rigorous warm up of the fingers allows waking up the nervous receptors which are able to inform the organism of wrong articulation placements.
Stop the session immediately and put a lot of ice on it at soon as possible (ice cube massage).
Immobilise the finger with a syndactyly strap (strap to the next finger).
Continue to put ice on it, 3 times per day, and apply an anti-inflammatory gel for one week.
Continue to put ice on it if the pain persists after one week.
A sprain is no harmless lesion.
We strongly recommend that you see a specialist in sports medicine as soon as possible so that you will receive adequate treatment, which should include physical therapy. The sooner the lesion is treated, the lower the risk of persistent problems.
Be careful, in cases of serious sprains with a possible dislocation, consult an orthopaedic specialist for hands.